According to pet surveys, most people want to get cats for pets because they believe that all cats are gentle and sweet. Unfortunately, this is not the case for everyone. Some people complain about the aggression in their cats. Constant hissing, clawing, and biting from the meowing pet you adore isn’t what you wanted when you took the tiny kitten home. Because most cat owners don’t understand this aggression, their cat ends up in the nearest shelter. If you don’t want to give up on your aggressive cat, here are some of the effective ways to calm your combative feline.

Provide a Safe Place

Animal behaviorists advise that aggression in cats may be a call for help. Your cat may be stressed and would like to have a place to relax. Although all your pets get along, cats still need some alone time. You can create this for your cat by providing a cat condo, steps that lead to a high shelf, or a special room that is only for your feline companion. This quiet place will help your aggressive cat mellow down.

Check With Your Veterinarian

If your cat shows sudden aggression, animal scientists say that you should bring your cat to your veterinarian immediately. This sudden change in behavior may be a sign of an underlying health condition. Veterinarians say that your cat’s aggression may be due to pain from conditions such as arthritis or infection. The earlier your vet detects this health issue, the sooner your cat can go back to being gentle.

Keep Small Kids Away

Animal experts always emphasize that small children and babies should never be allowed to interact with pets unsupervised. Although your pet has proven to be a loyal and gentle friend, a quick pull of a pointy ear or a sudden pinch of furry skin can result in a scratch or a bite. Animal behaviorists say that it’s rare for cats to be tolerant of a child’s movements. To prevent unwanted trips to the ER or the vet hospital, it is best to keep your small kids and cats in different spaces.

Don’t Yell

Yelling is a common reaction for humans if they want to stop a situation or discipline a person. This may work on your dog, but never on your cat. Animal experts often explain that cats do not respond to anything negative. If you want to calm your cat down, it is best to build on your moments together. Bonding with your cat strengthens your connection. This will let your cat know that you are only there for safety and security.

Nip Fights in the Bud

Research indicates that having more than one cat in your house is a setup for a fight, especially if you didn’t neuter or spay them. Make sure you have a spray bottle, a piece of cardboard, or a blanket that could block eye contact between feuding cats. These are effective ways to prevent aggression and bring everything down to calmness.

You can bring back your sweet cat if you understand your cat’s needs. We, at The Little Cat Clinic, are always ready to help you with your cat’s behavior and overall health. Please visit our clinic in La Mesa, California, for a walk-in consultation. You can also call us at 619-465-4900 if you want to make inquiries or set an appointment.

Microchipping, identification and registration

A microchip is a small electronic chip that can be scanned by a microchip reader to show a unique number. The microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and consists of a coating that protects the internal electronics and avoids the animal’s body from reacting to the chip. The chip is inserted under the skin in the back of a cat’s neck using a needle.

The microchip number is linked to a database with details about the animal and owner so that when the chip is scanned, the owner’s details can be identified. This helps to reunite lost cats with their owners quickly and is also used to prove ownership. See this article for more information about why microchipping is important.

Pet owner contact details should be registered with your local council, and updated if any details change. You can do this here. Microchipping is mandatory in most Australian states and territories (please see this article to find out more about the regulations in your state/territory).

Information about what to do if your cat does go missing can be found here. External identification (collar and tag) should also be placed on your cat, where this is safe and tolerated by your cat. Ensure that any collar used is a quick-release type, to help avoid your cat getting hooked on something by the collar or getting a leg stuck through the collar.

In some jurisdictions, it is necessary to register your cat with the local authority so it is important to check this.

Desexing

Desexing involves surgically removing the ovaries and uterus of female cats, or surgically removing both testicles of males to prevent unwanted breeding. This must be done by a qualified veterinarian. In addition to preventing unwanted litter, other benefits of desexing include reducing the risk of mammary cancers and uterine infections; reducing aggressive behaviour; reducing the likelihood of a cat roaming and, consequently, getting lost or injured; and reducing the likelihood of marking behaviours such as urine spraying [1].

There is no benefit in allowing female cats to have one heat or litter before they are desexed [1]. Pre-pubertal desexing is recommended before cats can reach puberty at about 16 weeks (this is also sometimes called Early Age Desexing or EAD). Please see this article for information about laws and regulations surrounding desexing your cat in your state/territory.

See these articles for more information:

• Why should I have my cat desexed?
• Why does the RSPCA advocate early-age desexing?
• Is desexing mandatory for cats and dogs?

Health care

An annual check-up by your veterinarian is important to ensure your cat is healthy. Your cat’s weight will also be monitored during these visits, to ensure they are not underweight or overweight, as both can be a sign of or lead to health issues.

Dental care is important in preventing painful dental disease in cats. It may involve brushing your cat’s teeth with pet toothpaste and toothbrush if they allow this, providing specially formulated dental food to help reduce tartar build-up, giving them dental treats or having their teeth cleaned professionally under general anaesthesia, as recommended by your veterinarian.

It is important that your cat is vaccinated by your veterinarian to reduce the risks associated with cat flu (feline herpesvirus and calicivirus) and enteritis (feline panleukopenia), both of which are contagious and can make your cat very ill. In some circumstances, you may need to consider vaccination against other diseases for your cat; for example, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV). Seek advice from your veterinarian about the most appropriate vaccination program for your cat.

Flea prevention is important as fleas can cause significant discomfort, can cause an allergic reaction, may also transmit diseases such as tapeworm, and can also cause anaemia (as fleas feed on your cat’s blood). Depending on where you live, you may also need to protect your cat against ticks and, in particular, paralysis ticks.

Worming prevention is also important in avoiding diarrhoea and other worm related problems such as anaemia from a heavy worm burden.

See these articles for more details:

• What vaccinations should my cat receive?
• What are Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukaemia (FeLV) and how do I protect my cat from them?
• How can I protect my dog or cat from tick paralysis?
• How should I take care of my cat or dog’s teeth?
• What are the animal welfare issues with anaesthesia-free dentistry?

Nutrition

Cats are obligate carnivores, which means they require meat in their diet for them to be healthy. A high-quality commercial cat food tailored to their age and needs is important to ensure they have a balanced diet. Your cat should have access to clean, fresh water at all times.

See these articles for more information:

• Do cats have special nutritional requirements?
• What should I feed my kitten?
• What should I feed my cat?

Keeping your cat indoors

Containing your cat to your property prevents unwanted litters of kittens, catfights, diseases, and other injuries such as being hit by a car [2]. Containing your cat also reduces the risk of them hunting native wildlife [2]. If you would like to allow your cat outdoors, a fully contained outdoor enclosure or enclosed yard with cat-proof fencing is recommended [2]. Providing enrichment will ensure your cat is entertained and stimulated while indoors (see ‘Enrichment’ below) [3].

See these articles for more information:

• How can I keep my cat safe and happy at home?
• I want to start keeping my cat indoors. How do I adjust an outdoor cat to contain my property?
• Should I walk my cat on a lead?

Enrichment

There are many kinds of enrichment available to keep your cat entertained and stimulated.

These include:

• Toys: for example, wand toys, balls or stuffed mice toys.
• Puzzle feeder toys: these allow your cat to forage for food and encourage problem-solving [4].
• Opportunities to scratch and get up high: cats love heights and scratching, so providing scratch posts or getting crafty and making a cardboard tower will keep them happy [4].
• Ensure you also spend quality time with your cat.

See this article for more information:

How can I keep my cat safe and happy at home?

Planning for emergencies and changes in circumstances

During a natural disaster such as a bushfire, extreme weather (e.g. storms, floods, or heatwaves) or an earthquake, it may be necessary to evacuate from your home. It is important to have an emergency plan in place which includes your animals.

It is also important to make a plan for the ongoing care of your cat, should something happen to you which restricts your ability to look after your cat.

See this article for more information:

Welcoming a new cat or kitten into your home is an exciting experience and can be the beginning of wonderful companionship. Adopting a cat also comes with a lot of change for both of you. Our guide on planning for your new cat will help you make the transition as smooth as possible.

Shopping for your cat

Are you thinking "what do I need to buy for my new cat?". Watch our video for top tips on essential cat products for your new arrival. Buy cat products online - find everything from cosy beds to toys and feeding mats in our shop.

How to plan and prepare for your new cat

Once you’ve decided to give a cat a home, it’s time to get your home ready and prepare for a cat. You’ll need to make sure you leave enough time to make adequate preparations, as well as to go shopping for everything they need.

The most important thing your cat needs is a quiet, comfortable, and secluded space of their or her own. It could be a spare bedroom or a cozy space in the corner of your living room. This will make sure your cat becomes familiar with one space before exploring the rest of your home.

Here's a step-by-step guide on setting up a space for your new cat

• Make sure the space is private. Keep dogs, kids, and guests out
• Make it safe. Remove potential hazards like cleaning products or anything that could be knocked over
• Provide a hiding space. A cardboard box on top of a tall piece of furniture is ideal
• Add your cat’s essential items. You’ll find a full list of these below
• Provide some fun. Puzzle toys, fishing rod toys, and even cardboard boxes are excellent boredom busters
• Find out more about welcoming your new cat home in our guide

Things you'll need for your new cat

• One food bowl
• One water bowl; remember to place your food and water bowl away from each other
• Food and water
• A soft, warm, and comfortable bed put somewhere quiet and safe
• A litter tray kept away from your cat’s food and a water area
• Access to a high spot where they can view their surroundings. A simple cardboard box should do the trick!
• A sturdy scratching post
• A brush
• Cat toys
• A cat carrier; choose something well ventilated and sturdy

Remember: When providing beds, litter trays, scratching posts, and food and water bowls, it is a good idea to provide one extra. When more than one cat is sharing the home, provide one of these items per cat plus one extra. For example, two cats should have access to at least three litter trays.

What does my cat need?

It’s important to make sure your new cat has all the essentials they need before bringing them home. To help you provide for your pet, we’ve put together a checklist. Download it, take it shopping with you and stick it on your fridge – it’s got everything you need for your new addition.

Or you can watch our video below to learn more about what you'll need for your cat's arrival - and why!

A microchip is a small rice-grain-sized chip that is placed just below the skin in the back of the neck of dogs and cats. This chip is linked to a database that contains the owner’s and pet’s details and can be scanned by veterinarians and authorized scanners to reunite lost pets and their owners.

ACT

Yes. Section 84 of the Domestic Animals Act 2000 and Regulation 7 of the Domestic Animals Regulation 2001 requires microchipping of cats and dogs prior to sale/transfer and by 12 weeks of age.

Regulations 7 and 9 of the Domestic Animals Regulation 2001 outline what information must be recorded in the microchip database

NSW

Yes. Section 8 of the Companion Animals Act 1998 requires microchipping of cats and dogs prior to sale/transfer and by 12 weeks of age.

Regulation 8 of the Companion Animals Regulation 2008 outlines what information must be recorded in the microchip database.

From 1 July 2019, it is mandatory for anyone selling or giving away a dog or cat to use an identification number in their advertisement – this number can either be the microchip number or breeder identification number or a rehoming organization number. This is enforced under Section 23 of the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1979. This allows buyers to search the NSW Pet Registry to see the pet’s details and make informed purchasing decisions.

NT

No. However, it is compulsory if you are within the City of Darwin as part of the Council’s Animal Management By-Laws.

QLD

Yes. Section 14 of the Animal Management (Cats and Dogs) Act 2008 requires microchipping of cats and dogs prior to reaching 12 weeks of age unless there is a reasonable excuse.

Schedule 2 of the Animal Management (Cats and Dogs) Act 2008 and Schedule 4 of the Animal Management (Cats and Dogs) Regulation 2009 outline what information must be recorded in the microchip database.

SA

Yes. From 1st July 2018, part 4A of the Dog and Cat Management (Miscellaneous) Amendment Act 2016 (SA) requires microchipping of cats and dogs prior to sale/transfer and prior to reaching 12 weeks of age.

TAS

Yes for dogs. Section 15A of the Dog Control Act 2000 requires microchipping of dogs by 6 months of age.

Not yet for cats but owners of cats over six months of age are encouraged to have their cat microchipped and desexed. A compulsory microchipping and desexing requirement as part of the Cat Management Act 2009 will be phased in one year after the amendment if passed by parliament (likely by the end of 2021) which will require microchipping of cats by 6 months of age. After this time it will be necessary for cats being reclaimed from a cat management facility to be desexed and microchipped before being released to the owner.

VIC

Yes. Section 10C of the Domestic Animals Act 1994 requires cats and dogs to be microchipped as a condition of registration (which is compulsory once the animal is 3 months of age). However the requirement to microchip prior to sale/transfer under section 12A only applies to domestic animal businesses.

Regulation 12 of the Domestic Animals Regulations 2005 outlines what information must be recorded in the microchip database.

Section 12A (2) of the Domestic Animals Act 1994 requires an animal’s microchip number to be displayed in any advertisement for the animal, but not at the point of sale. If the seller is a ‘domestic animal business’ the breeder must display the microchip number or the breeder registration number, and the name of the issuing Council.

From 1 July 2019, any person or business who is advertising to sell or give away a dog or cat will need to be enrolled on the Pet Exchange Register. This enables buyers to make informed decisions when purchasing a new pet. It is an offense to advertise a dog or cat for sale or to give away without including the microchip number and a source number generated by the Pet Exchange Register under Part 5C of the Domestic Animals Act 1994.

WA

Yes. Section 21 of the Dog Act 1976 requires dogs to be microchipped when they are 3 months of age, and being registered for the first time or when a change of ownership occurs. As of 1 November 2015, all dogs that have reached 3 months of age must be microchipped regardless of registration status.

The information presented here is not intended to be relied on for legal advice and you should seek advice from the relevant authority and/or a lawyer about your individual circumstances.

Cats like to scratch. They scratch during play. They scratch while stretching. They scratch to mark territory or as a threatening signal to other cats. And because cats’ claws need regular sharpening, cats scratch on things to remove frayed, worn outer claws and expose new, sharper claws. All this scratching can cause a lot of damage to furniture, drapes, and carpeting!

What to Do About Your Cat’s Scratching Habits

The best tactic when dealing with scratching is not to try to stop your cat from scratching, but instead to teach her where and what to scratch. An excellent approach is to provide her with appropriate, cat-attractive surfaces and objects to scratch, such as scratching posts. The following steps will help you encourage your cat to scratch where you want her to:

• Provide a variety of scratching posts with different qualities and surfaces. Try giving your cat posts made of cardboard, carpeting, wood, sisal, and upholstery. Some cats prefer horizontal posts. Others might like vertical posts or slanted posts. Some prefer a vertical grain for raking, while others favor a horizontal grain for picking. Once you figure out your cat’s preference for scratching, provide additional posts of that kind in various locations. Keep in mind that all cats want a sturdy post that won’t shift or collapse when used. Most cats also like a post that’s tall enough that they can stretch fully. (This may be why cats seem to like drapes so much!)
• Encourage your cat to investigate her posts by scenting them with catnip, hanging toys on them, and placing them in areas where she’ll be inclined to climb on them.
• Discourage inappropriate scratching by removing or covering other desirable objects. Turn speakers toward the wall. Put plastic, double-sided sticky tape, sandpaper or upside-down vinyl carpet runner (knobby parts up) on furniture or on the floor where your cat would stand to scratch your furniture. Place scratching posts next to these objects, as “legal” alternatives.
• Clip your cat’s nails regularly. To learn how, please see the "Nail Care" section of our article, Cat Grooming Tips.
• Consider putting plastic caps on your cat’s claws so that he’ll do no damage if he scratches on something in your home. These special caps attach to claws with an adhesive. They’re temporary, lasting four to six weeks.
• If you catch your cat in the act of scratching an inappropriate object, you can try startling him by clapping your hands or squirting him with water. Use this procedure only as a last resort, because your cat may associate you with the startling event (clapping or squirting) and learn to fear you.
• If you need help, don’t hesitate to call in the experts. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB).

 What NOT to Do

• Do not hold your cat by the scratching post and force her to drag her claws on it. This practice could seriously frighten your cat and teach her to avoid the scratching post completely. She might decide to avoid you, too!
• Do not throw away a favorite scratching post when it becomes unsightly. Cats prefer shredded and torn objects because they can really get their claws into the material. Used posts will also appeal to your cat because they smell and look familiar to her.

Should You Declaw Your Cat?

Some people decide to declaw their cats to prevent or resolve a scratching problem. The ASPCA is strongly opposed to declawing cats because declawing has not been proven an effective method for improving behavioral issues, including aggression towards people or other cats. It should never be used as a behavioral remedy or as a preventative measure. The only circumstances in which the procedure should be considered are those in which all behavioral and environmental alternatives have been fully explored, have proven to be ineffective, and the cat is at grave risk of euthanasia.

The term “declaw” is actually a misnomer. It implies that declawing only involves the removal of a cat’s claws. In reality, declawing (or onychectomy) is the amputation of the last digital bone, including the nail bed and claw, on the front of each toe. Cats suffer from significant pain while recovering from this procedure. The surgery introduces the cat to the risk of anesthesia, excessive bleeding, and postoperative complications, including infection, and is accompanied by pain that may last from several days to much longer unless appropriate pain control is provided.

A variety of alternatives exist to manage natural scratching behavior, behavioral issues and to prevent injury from cat scratches. These include having a cat’s nails trimmed regularly in order to blunt the tips, providing scratching pads, posts, and other appealing structures for the cat to use, and employing behavior modification techniques to induce the cat to use them, using deterrents such as double-sided tape to protect furnishings, and covering the claws with soft temporary. Pet parents should also be familiar with cat behavior and proper handling techniques to avoid being scratched.

Click here to read the ASPCA’s complete Position Statement on Declawing Cats 

The cat is the most common pet in the world. Since the beginning of human civilization, cats have been companions to people. The cat-human relationship began as a partnership of convenience linked to the beginnings of agriculture but evolved over time into a mutual connection and appreciation that has been growing for the last 10,000 years. From the African wildcat to the domesticated house cat, the fascinating journey and history of the cat touch almost all corners of the world.

Middle East 

Researchers recently discovered that, in the Mesopotamia region and Turkey, and on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, cats were living with among people thousands of years before they existed in Egypt. In fact, evidence suggests that people domesticated cats in the Middle East more than 10,000 years ago, and cats were revered in many of the region’s traditions. Researchers consider the Middle East the place where people first domesticated cats. Additionally, the first evidence of the “blotched“ or “tabby“ coat pattern cat, which commonly appears in domesticated cats, appeared in Turkey during the 14th century. 

Africa

The ancient Egyptians began domesticating the African wildcat as early as 4,000 years ago. In ancient Egypt, people believed that cats were magical, divine and godlike. In fact, ancient Egyptians worshipped a feline goddess named Bastet, who was depicted as half-feline, half-woman. Throughout the artifacts from ancient Egypt, cats are a symbolic fixture, illustrating their value, popularity, and companionship with humans. Even in death, people immortalized the cats of ancient Egypt as mummies. 

Asia 

Around 3,000 B.C., the people of China began to domesticate the leopard cat and the western wildcat for pest control. During the Sung Dynasty (960 – 1279), people cherished cats as loyal pets. Artists depicted them in paintings and sculptures. The Chinese culture considered the cat as a symbol of good luck. 

Europe 

During the Middle Ages, many people considered cats demonic and associated them with darkness and witchcraft. As a result, popes and high-ranking officials condemned cats, and the animals were often tortured and killed. In more modern times, especially the Age of Enlightenment in the 17th and 18th centuries, cats began to shed their negative reputation and regained popularity as loyal pets. Today, cats are one of the most popular and cherished pets in Europe. A recent Boehringer Ingelheim and IPSOS joint study found that over 91 percent of cat owners say their cat has a positive effect on their lives. 

North and South America 

Cats arrived in North and South America with European settlers. As the settlers began to cultivate the land, cats helped establish the unique human-animal bond through their natural ability to hunt, drive away rodents and serve as loyal companion pets. Today, the domestic cat is the most popular household pet in the U.S., with nearly 74 million cats living in homes.

We tend to think of our cats as one of the family. But it hasn’t always been that way! Pet cats may be a staple of modern life, but they began their evolutionary journey as untamed hunters. However, after forming a mutually beneficial bond with early human societies, cats have lived alongside people ever since, and the history of cats has become entwined with our own.

How cats were domesticated

Modern domestic (pet) cats are all thought to share one common ancestor: a small wildcat whose descendants can still be found living in Africa, Europe, and Central Asia today. These cats were native to the area known as the Fertile Crescent, which curves along the River Nile in North Africa and across the Middle East.

The relatively lush and fertile terrain across this region not only provided a habitat for plants and animals to flourish but was also the perfect incubator for many early human civilizations.

Cats in Ancient Egypt

It was once believed that cats were first domesticated in Ancient Egypt, some 4,000 years ago. However, while cats were certainly popular and revered in Ancient Egyptian culture, their close relationship with humankind is likely to date back far earlier. In Cyprus, human remains dating from around 9,500 years ago were found to have been deliberately buried with those of a cat. So clearly, people and cats were already living (and dying) alongside each other by this point in cat history.

Some experts believe that the domestication of cats in the Fertile Crescent may have begun as far back as 12,000 years ago, during an agricultural boom in the region, particularly in Egypt and Syria. Human settlements, grain cultivation, and an abundance of food no doubt bolstered the populations of rodents and small animals. Naturally, this would have attracted a large number of cats to prey upon this ample food supply.

From here, the mutual advantages for cats and humans of living in close proximity were probably clear – just as they had been earlier in history for humans and dogs. Cats were essentially seen as security guards for food in homes and grain stores and were rewarded as such. Ancient Egyptian culture cemented cats’ position in human society, endlessly capturing their image in art, mummifying cats alongside important humans, and even worshipping cat goddesses like Bastet.

The spread of domesticated cats

By the time the Ancient Egyptian empire was eventually assimilated into that of the Romans, cats were already conquering the world. The Romans and Ancient Greeks had long been trading with other kingdoms, such as Egypt and Phoenicia. The practice of using domesticated cats as pest control spread from the Fertile Crescent to the Mediterranean civilizations, and from there, to the rest of Europe.

At around the time of Ancient Egypt’s collapse, domesticated cats had also begun to make inroads in more distant parts of the world, including India, and even Japan. Here, cats initially became fashionable as pets for the rich and ruling classes.

Cats in the Middle Ages

Domestic cats had seemingly secured a permanent place in human society as both efficient hunters and valued companions. But the history of cats and humans hasn’t always been totally harmonious. Cats have always attracted myths and superstition – including an association with witchcraft – which has sometimes led to their persecution.

During the 14th century, when the Black Death killed millions of people across Europe, North Africa, and Asia, many people believed that cats or dogs were the harbingers of the disease. The Lord Mayor of London, and other European leaders, even called for these animals to be killed to halt the plague’s deadly spread. In fact, the most recent research has suggested that human fleas and body lice were the major agents of its spread.

Despite bad press like this, cats continued to live whisker by jowl with people. And as Europeans began to impose colonization on other continents and explore new trade routes, many ocean-going ships kept cats on board in order to protect themselves from pests and pest-borne diseases. A ship’s cat came to be seen as lucky and was often cherished by the crew. Wherever people went, cats went, too – including the New World of the Americas.

Modern-day cats

With their close links to humanity and their finely evolved hunting skills, it’s no wonder that cats have become as popular with people as they have. And, in many parts of the world, the companionship, affection, and emotional rewards that cats bring into our lives have overtaken their original value to us as pest controllers and food protectors.

Today, there are almost one billion domestic cats worldwide, with just under 10 million in the UK alone, and an ever-increasing variety of breeds. Yet in many respects – including their physical agility, super-sharp senses, and hunting prowess – our pet cats have changed relatively little from their wild cousins. And since cats still appear to live with us very much on their own terms, we can only assume that the relationship suits them, too!

Does your cat act batty when you get out the catnip? My Zoe sure does! She loves her catnip-filled mouse and will sniff it, roll on top of it, swat at it, and then proceed to bounce all around the room. She’s over 16-years-old and normally quite chill, but when she’s been at the catnip, it’s like she’s a kitten again.

So what gives? Why do cats go goofy for catnip?

What exactly is catnip?

Catnip, or nepeta cataria, is an herbaceous perennial. Dried catnip resembles oregano but is actually a member of the mint family. Native to Europe, Africa, and Asia, it was imported to North America and now grows like a wild weed in every region. It can even grow to be two or three feet high!

Fresh catnip has stems with heart-shaped leaves and can sprout small white, blue, pink, or lavender blooms. It does well in full sunlight and grows rather easily.

That means even people like me without a green thumb can probably manage it. You can clip the leaves and hang them to dry in a dark space to have your own stash of catnip on hand. Store it in a baggie in the fridge so it stays potent longer.

Just be sure to keep any catnip plants out of paw’s reach. While a little nibbling on the leaves probably won’t harm your cat, the plant might not fair so well. Your cat could also knock the plant over and get hurt or dig around in the dirt and make a big mess that you’ll be left to clean up.

Catnip Effects on Cats

The active ingredient in catnip is an essential oil called nepetalactone (say that 10 times fast!). Exactly how this chemical affects the wiring of your cat’s brain isn’t clear, but it is noted to bind to receptors inside a cat’s nose, which then stimulate the sensory neurons leading to a cat’s brain. So, what exactly does catnip do to cats? It’s thought to mimic feline pheromones, which cause a euphoric reaction.

The blissful high of catnip doesn’t last very long, oftentimes less than 30 minutes. Your cat might get nutty for about ten or fifteen minutes and then wander away for a nap. Once a cat has partaken of the catnip, it takes a couple of hours before it can be affected by it again.

Catnip can make cat's meow, purr, growl, roll on the ground, zip about, and even drool. It can also have a mild hallucinatory effect, which helps explain why a kitty on catnip might bat at the air or dodge something that isn’t there. Sniffing catnip has more of a stimulant effect, whereas eating it is more likely to make a cat all sorts of relaxed and sleepy.

Some cats can react to catnip with mild aggression, such as low growling or swatting. If you have more than one cat in the house, you should consider giving it to only one cat at a time to avoid potential fights and definitely keep an eye on them during their trip.

Interestingly enough, not all cats are affected by catnip. It’s believed to be an inherited sensitivity with maybe only one out of three cats having it. Kittens under two or three months old are also not likely to react to catnip, and older cats can be less prone to having a reaction—although my Zoe flies in the face of that one!

Is catnip safe for cats?

There’s no evidence that catnip is harmful to cats or young kittens. However, if they eat a lot of fresh or dried catnip leaves, they can get an upset tummy along with vomiting or diarrhea. Cats are good at self-regulating, so typically won’t overdo it if they get hold of a catnip plant or unexpectedly get into a bag of catnip.

It’s good to keep in mind that although the catnip isn’t harmful, cats can get hurt while they’re zooming around the room. Zoe once jumped up on the bed only to roll right off the other side—and she did not land on her feet! Luckily, she didn’t have far to fall, and she seemed fine after she got over her initial shock.

In any case, catnip should be offered in moderation as an occasional, fun treat for your cat. Another reason not to go overboard on catnip is that it tends to lose its effect with too much use.

While catnip is safe for cats, there are plenty of plants that can cause problems, ranging from a minor stomachache to sudden kidney failure. See the list of 25 plants that are toxic to cats.

Can catnip be helpful?

Catnip can definitely come in handy in certain circumstances. For instance, it can be used to get an older feline or couch potato kind of cat moving. All cats need a daily dose of exercise to help keep their weight on track and avoid health problems, like joint pain and diabetes.

I know it works for me. Now that Zoe is in her twilight years, it can be tough to get her to do much besides doze in the warmth of a sunbeam. But when I get out her favorite catnip toy, she’s all in and gets some of the exercises she needs to stay healthy.

Catnip can also be helpful with behavioral issues. For instance, if your cat is scratching the furniture but not going near the scratching posts and mats you’ve set out, sprinkle a little catnip on them. That should get their attention. You can use this same trick with a new cozy pet bed that your cat doesn’t seem to have any interest in trying out.

In addition, you can offer your cat a little fresh catnip to nosh on before a stressful event. Working as a mild sedative, it can chill out your cat and make car trips, visits to the veterinarian, and other anxiety-provoking activities easier for you both.

7 Fun Catnip Facts

1. Catnip is a natural mosquito repellant. Unfortunately, it’s not effective when applied to the skin.
2. Large cats like lions and tigers can be sensitive to catnip. That must be quite a party in the jungle!
3. Some people treat nausea or headaches with catnip tea. It’s also known to help with insomnia.
4. You can make a paste out of dried catnip to apply to wounds by crushing it up and adding a bit of water. I’ll stick to bacitracin, thanks!
5. Catnip comes in many forms—dried, fresh, pressed into solid balls, and in sprays. The sprays tend to be less potent than dried catnip, but are useful for spritzing scratching posts and freshening up toys.
6. You can even buy catnip bubbles. I have to say, I tried this one, and Zoe was not a fan, but maybe other cats find bubbles more fascinating.
7. There are plenty of catnip toys on the market too, but you can also make your cat homemade toys that work just as well.

There are many different reasons why cats can be aggressive towards their owner or other people. To be able to successfully treat the problem, it’s essential to work out what the underlying cause, or trigger, is. To do this, we highly recommend that you consult with a qualified veterinary behaviourist (your local vet can refer you). They will ask you lots of questions and may also visit you in your house so they can observe the cat in its own environment and its interactions with you and any other members of the household.

Medical conditions can cause aggression so it is important to rule out any underlying medical causes prior to addressing behavioural causes for aggression. Neurological disease, liver disease, pain-inducing disease e.g. arthritis and hormone imbalances can cause aggression.

This article provides some basic advice about seven common types of aggression in cats and how to deal with them:

1. Patting aggression
2. Fear aggression
3. Redirected aggression
4. Pain-induced aggression
5. Play aggression
6. Noise-induced aggression
7. Sexual aggression

1. Patting aggression

In patting-induced aggression, the cat will not approach the victim to attack, and does not generally actively avoid people, as the ‘fear aggressive’ cat does. Instead, it becomes aggressive at some point after it has been patted for a while. Typically, aggression occurs sooner and is more intense if the person has initiated the patting, e.g. by picking the cat up and putting them in their lap, than if the cat initiated the petting. However, petting-induced aggression can occur in both situations.

Some cats do not tolerate being patted for a long period. In these cases the cat tends to be very content while being patted initially, then suddenly it attacks the person, jumps down, runs a short distance, sits, grooms, with pupils dilated.

Prevention

• Don’t pat the cat for a prolonged period
• Wait for the cat to initiate patting – and then keep it short
• Look out for any signals that the cat sends when they do not wish to be patted anymore and use these as your cue to stop patting
• Desensitise the cat by patting for at first very short and then increasingly longer times, while rewarding the cat with food treats for tolerating the patting.

2. Fear aggression

Cats usually display fear aggression when they feel threatened, especially when cornered. Initially the cat tends to show defensive body language and will attempt to avoid the person they are afraid of, but when cornered they may become quite aggressive. Ears will generally be turned back, and the tail and body lowered, but the teeth will be displayed and hissing or growling may occur. Cats with fear aggression generally do not approach the victim. This problem can occur at any age.

Causes of fear aggression include a lack of socialisation, genetic predisposition and a cat’s general personality. Inappropriate human-cat interactions, such as a history of punishment, can also influence the development of fear aggression.

Prevention

• Avoid potential triggering situations
• Systematically desensitise the cat by gradual exposure to the fearful stimulus
• Give the cat a food treat while it is calm during the trigger situation. Rewarding with a food treat whilst calm reinforces relaxation during exposure to the fearful event. This is known as ‘counter-conditioning’ (associating a fear-evoking situation with a pleasant experience)
• Teach the cat to perform an alternative behaviour in situations in which fear was shown. This is known as ‘response substitution’
• Sometimes medication can be used in combination with behavioural modification (your vet will advise)
• Synthetic pheromones can also have a calming effect (e.g. Feliway® spray/diffuser – available at vet clinics).

3. Redirected aggression

Redirected aggression occurs when a human attempts to handle a cat that is aroused by something unrelated to the person, e.g. the dog has been chasing the cat or the cat is fighting with another cat. Typically, redirected aggression starts when a cat sees another cat outside or smells another cat and becomes aggressive (territorial aggression), but can’t directly interact with the outside cat. She will then redirect the aggression to another cat in the household or a person.

If the aggression is directed to another cat in the household, this can result in inter-cat aggression whenever the cats meet again, and will not resolve without specific treatment. In either case (when directed towards cats or towards humans), redirected aggression is likely to occur repeatedly unless the trigger can be removed.

Prevention

Take steps to avoid the trigger situation from occurring, e.g. by preventing access to window sills, covering windows or keeping stray cats away

Avoid handling the cat if they appear aroused by something

Alternatively, systematically desensitise the cat by gradual exposure to the fearful stimulus, or

Give the cat a food treat while they are calm during the trigger situation. Rewarding with a food treat whilst calm reinforces relaxation during exposure to the fearful event

Medication may also be used in combination with behavioural modification (your vet will advise).

4. Pain-induced aggression

This form of aggression may be shown in response to a painful procedure, or the anticipation of a painful procedure. Chronic pain may also increase irritability and make the cat more aggressive (e.g. arthritis).

Prevention

• Avoidance of the trigger
• Systematic and gradual desensitisation to situations that were previously associated with pain
• Give cat a food treat while it tolerates/is relaxed during the trigger situation
• Provision of pain relief for conditions resulting in acute or chronic pain (your vet will be able to assist).

5. Play aggression

One of the most common types of aggression is play aggression. Vigorous play in cats is part of normal cat behaviour. These cats are usually young, energetic cats living as single cats in a household and sometimes have a history of being taken early from their mother and siblings. Often, owners contribute to the problem by playing roughly with the cat when it is a little kitten, rewarding it for biting and clawing by continuing the play.

Play aggression typically involves the cat approaching the target (stalking) and then leaping onto the target. There is usually no warning growl or hiss. The attacker may hide in wait behind a barrier, intensely focused, and with their tail twitching. The cat does not exhibit dominance posturing toward the victim, and does not retreat from or avoid the victim with characteristic signs of fear. In fact, the cat often hides behind some furniture and waits until a person walks by, and then dashes out and attacks the person’s ankles. Hands dangling over the armrest of a chair are also favourite targets.

Prevention

• Avoid trigger situations where possible
• Do not encourage aggressive play: this involves ignoring unwanted behaviour (not reinforcing it with your attention). If your cat tries to play aggressively move away from the situation, preferably into another room, shut the door and do not react. No reaction means that your cat receives no attention for the unwanted behaviour (and thus they are less likely to continue that behaviour if they learn that they won’t get any attention when they do it)
• Positive reinforcement training also involves rewarding ‘good’ behaviour. So when the cat is playing with her cat toy or when he is calm and relaxed, you can reward him with a food treat
• Confrontational reactions such as physical punishment, or reacting to the aggression with fast movements or high-pitched vocalizations, may simply reinforce the aggression (via negative reinforcement). This is because any reaction by the owner (even negative) is still attention and some cats would prefer to have negative attention than to have no attention at all
• Protect yourself – put bells on your cat, so that you can hear where she is
• Redirect the behaviour – once you have interrupted an attack by ignoring and moving away, toss a toy for the cat to initiate appropriate play. You can then reward her for ‘good’ behaviour. Learn how to predict an attack and redirect the behaviour before it occurs
• Provide interesting toys, and rotate their use  (avoid string toys as these can become intestinal obstructions if swallowed)
• Interact in appropriate play. To teach your cat to interact appropriately with you, and to satisfy their need for social contact, have daily play periods. In these play periods, interact with your cat using toys. The idea is to allow for playful interaction and expression of predatory behaviour but without giving the cat the possibility to bite/scratch you directly
• Teach bite and claw-inhibition using positive reinforcement training. Do this initially when the cat is calm, NOT when it is motivated to play. Gently pat or play with the cat. Don’t get her excited, because then rough play is likely to escalate and she won’t learn that this is undesirable.
• As long as the cat remains gentle, let her nibble and hold your hand. As soon as she puts any pressure on your skin, immediately stop playing and ignore her for some time. This will teach your cat to play very gently, just as one kitten would learn from another (positive reinforcement training). As time goes by, you reduce the amount of pressure that you tolerate more and more. You can teach even an adult cat not to grab you with their mouth, and to never use their claws when interacting with you.

6. Noise-induced aggression

Cats may respond to certain sound frequencies with aggression. Examples include a baby crying, another cat crying, high-frequency whistling or squeaking sounds. A possible explanation might be the elicitation of predatory behaviour by high-frequency sounds.

Prevention

• Avoid trigger sound frequencies (where possible)
• Where appropriate you can attempt desensitisation and counter-conditioning. Desensitisation to noise means playing the ‘trigger’ sound at a very low volume and if the cat remains calm/relaxed she can then be rewarded with a food treat (counter-conditioning). The volume is then very slowly increased over time and the cat continues to be rewarded as long as they remain calm and relaxed during the sound.

7. Sexual aggression

Only male cats exhibit sexual aggression. The cat will mount a person’s arm or ankle, grab the skin with its teeth, and initiate pelvic thrusting. Attempts to dislodge the cat at this point will result in increased aggression. While a female cat’s thick scruff generally protects her from actual harm due to the male's nape-bite (back of neck), human skin is not so well protected and can result in injury. This may occur as a result of incorrect sexual imprinting.

Prevention

• Learn to recognise the triggers for an aggressive sexual mount and then avoid the situation (e.g. leave the room).
• When this behaviour starts, distract the cat with a toy instead or food (food treats should not be given if the cat is already showing aggression as this may negatively reinforce the behaviour).

Physical characteristics

The Persian cat is large to the medium-sized cat, with a well-balanced body and a sweet expression on its face. It has a huge and round head, small ears, and a comparatively short tail. The breed was originally established with a short (but not non-existent) muzzle, but over time this feature has become extremely exaggerated, particularly in North America. These Persians are susceptible to a number of health problems because of this characteristic, specifically affecting their sinuses and breathing. In addition, Persians with short muzzles have dust and debris accumulate inside of the nostrils, making it difficult to breathe.

The Persian cat is also famous for its long, silky coat, which shimmers. And while solid silver is the most popular color for the Persian currently, there are more than 80 colors available today, including black, blue, cream, and smoke.

Personality and temperament

This cat can remain inactive for long periods and has been called "furniture with fur" because of this characteristic. However, this is an ill-deserved reputation, as Persians are extremely intelligent and love to play, but lack the same amount of curiosity that other cats possess.

A Persian makes for an ideal companion, especially if you're looking for a sweet and docile cat. While it is extremely affectionate and enjoys being petted, it is not the sort of cat that will pester you for attention.

Care

The Persian cat breed requires a considerable amount of maintenance. This cat needs daily grooming to keep its beautiful hair in place and free from mats. Some owners even trim the Persian long hair, especially around the anus, which keeps it free from feces.

History and background

The Persian cat has long ruled the popularity charts. It participated in shows as early as 1871 when the first modern cat show was held at Crystal Palace in London. At this gala, organized by Harrison Weier, "father of the cat fancy," many representatives of the breed were present, easily placing it among the favorites.

The Persian cat breed was first registered with the Cat Fanciers Association (CFA) in 1871 when the association first kept records. Although its long-haired ancestors were reported to have been spotted in Europe as early as the 1500s. They were probably brought to the continent by Romans and Phoenician caravans from Persia (now Iran) and Turkey, according to documents of the era. It is also widely believed that the recessive gene for long hair appeared naturally in the cats living in the mountainous area of Persia.

Some of these Persian cats were imported into Italy in the 1600s by Pietro Della Valle (1586-1652), an Italian traveler. In his manuscript, Viaggi di Pietro Della Valle, the Persian was described as a gray cat with long, silky hair. More Persian cats were brought from Turkey into France by Nicholas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc, an astronomer, and later came to Britain by way of other travelers.

By the early 1900s, the Persians reigned supreme. Blue Persians were especially sought after, as Queen Victoria owned two of them. Also in the 1900s, the British Governing Council of the Cat Fancy decided that the Persian (as well as the Angora and Russian Longhairs) should be known simply as Longhairs, a policy that continues today.

The Persian cat breed was not imported into North America until the 1800s when they were quickly accepted. There was also an attempt in the United States to establish the Silver Persian as a separate breed called the Sterling, but it was rejected and Silver and Golden longhaired cats are now judged in the Persian category of cat shows.

Regardless of the Persian color, there is one thing for certain -- it is a luxurious-looking cat with a great personality.

 Whether you’ve just adopted a new cat or kitten, or are considering how best to care for your existing cat, the RSPCA Australia Guide on keeping your cat safe and happy at home can help.

We now know that cats can be safe and happy at home, avoiding the dangers of roaming. Many cat owners are now providing a safe and suitable environment for their cat at home all day, every day. Keeping your cat safe and happy at home means providing for all their needs, including some that may previously have been met by roaming outdoors. Meeting these needs in other ways requires forward-thinking and a little imagination and commitment. But you needn’t go it alone: we’re here to help explain how you and your cat can live at home together in harmony.

Click on the image below to visit the RSPCA Australia Safe and Happy Cats website for more information:

Many behaviors that are completely natural for dogs and cats—like barking or meowing, scratching, biting, digging, chewing, escaping and running away—can prove to be challenging for some pet parents. Although advice abounds in the form of popular TV shows, books and well-meaning friends and family, often the best and most efficient way to resolve your pet’s behavior problems is to seek assistance from a qualified professional. Professionals in the pet-behavior field fall into four main categories:

• Trainers
• Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs)
• Applied Animal Behaviorists, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs)
• Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (Dip ACVBs)

Here are some frequently asked questions from pet parents who are seeking professional behavioral help for their pet:

What are the differences between pet-behavior professionals?

Trainers

Pet trainers use a number of different titles, such as “behavior counselor,” “pet psychologist” and “pet therapist.” The level of education and experience among this group of professionals varies greatly. Most learn how to work with animals through apprenticeships with established trainers, volunteering at animal shelters, attending seminars on training and behavior and training their own animals. And some are certified by specialized training schools.

Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs)

The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT), an independent organization created by the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT), offers an international certification program. To earn the designation of Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), an individual must accrue a requisite number of working hours as a dog trainer, provide letters of recommendation and pass a standardized test that evaluates her or his knowledge of canine ethology, basic learning theory, canine husbandry and teaching skill. A CPDT must abide by a code of ethics and earn continuing education credits to maintain certification.

Applied Animal Behaviorists, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs)

An applied animal behaviorist has earned an MS, MA or PhD in animal behavior. They are experts in dog and cat behavior and often in the behavior of other companion animal species as well, like horses and birds. Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs, those with a doctoral degree) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (ACAABs, those with a master’s degree) received supervised graduate or post-graduate training in animal behavior, biology, zoology and learning theory at accredited universities.

Effective applied animal behaviorists will have expertise in (a) behavior modification, so they know the techniques that produce changes in behavior, (b) the normal behavior of the species they’re treating, so they can recognize how and why your pet’s behavior is abnormal, and (c) teaching and counseling people, so they can effectively teach you how to understand and work with your pet. Most CAABs work through veterinary referrals, and they work closely with veterinarians to select the best behavioral medications for pets.

Veterinary Behaviorists

Knowledge of animal behavior isn’t required to earn a veterinary degree, and animal behavior isn’t comprehensively taught in most veterinary training programs. However, some veterinarians seek specialized education in animal behavior and earn certification through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. To become a Diplomat of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (Dip ACVB), veterinarians must complete a residency in behavior and pass a qualifying examination.

In addition to having knowledge of domestic animal behavior and experience treating pet behavior problems, veterinary behaviorists can prescribe medications that can help with your pet’s treatment. Issues that often require the use of medication include separation anxiety, phobias, compulsive behaviors and fear of people, objects or other animals.

What kind of training does my pet need?

Once you’ve determined that you and your pet need some professional help to keep your household harmonious, consider what kind of training or treatment you need.

Group Class

If your pet needs to learn some basic manners and skills, like sit, down and come when called, you might benefit most from group obedience classes. Group glasses are also ideal for young puppies who need socialization.

Private Sessions

If your dog or cat has a specific behavior problem, seeing a professional outside of a classroom context would be best. Problems like resource guarding, handling issues, separation anxiety and aggression toward people or other animals require custom treatment plans and individual attention from a qualified behaviorist. Other less serious behavior issues that trainers and behaviorists can’t usually address in a group class include house training problems, excessive barking and destructive chewing.

Day Training & Board-and-Train

Day training is a great service for busy pet parents. The trainer comes to your house while you’re at work, or alternatively, some train your dog in their home or facility. The trainer teaches your dog the specific obedience behaviors you want, for example recalls (coming when called), wait, stay, walk on-leash without pulling and greeting people and pets politely. If the trainer is qualified as a behaviorist, she can also treat issues like resource guarding, handling issues, some other types of aggression, some types of excessive barking or meowing and some fears.

Board-and-train services involve leaving your pet in the trainer’s kennels for a specified period of time. Be sure that you know and agree with the methods that your board-and-train or day training professional plans to use, since you will not be there to supervise. This method should also provide a training package with instruction for you. Board-and-train and day training programs are only effective if the trainer teaches you some skills so that you can maintain your pet’s new behaviors after her training is done.

How Do I Decide Which Professional to Choose?

After you’ve decided between group classes, one-on-one private help and board-and-train, how do you figure out which professional is right for you and your pet? Your decision will be based on a number of factors, including the type of problem your pet has, the professional’s education and experience and the availability of behaviorists and trainers in your area.

Ask the right questions.

We advise contacting more than one professional in your area so that you can compare their methods, credentials and experience before making a choice. Don’t hire any professional without first thoroughly interviewing her or him and asking for a couple of references from former clients or veterinarians. A good behaviorist or trainer will be happy to speak with you about her or his qualifications, background and treatment or training methods.

Consider the nature of your pet’s behavioral problem.

If your pet has a serious behavior problem that puts him, people or other animals at risk, or if he’s developed a problem that causes him significant stress, seek an expert with both academic training (either a master’s or doctoral degree) and practical experience. Although some CAABs, ACAABs, and Dip ACVBs charge more per session than trainers, it’s because they’ve acquired a great deal of knowledge through years of study and research.

Rule out physical problems.

If your pet has a behavior problem, contacting a trainer or a behaviorist is a great first step on the road to resolution. However, some behavior problems can be caused or exacerbated by physical problems. For example, if your nine-week-old puppy urinates indoors when you’re not supervising him, he probably simply needs house training, but if your five-year-old dog who hasn’t made a mistake in the house for years suddenly starts urinating indoors, you might have a medical condition on your hands.

Trainers and behaviorists specialize in pet behavior problems. Only licensed veterinarians can diagnose medical conditions. If you think that your pet is sick, injured or experiencing any kind of physical distress, please contact your veterinarian immediately.